Chamonix Sep. - Oct. 2011

In the last few months I have been in Chamonix a couple of times, climbing in pretty stable fall conditions.

On the first trip I climbed the first four pitches of Voie Couzy on Aiguille L´M (TD-: 6a, 350m) with my girlfriend and Couloir Chere (D: 4, 350m) and Petit Frounet (D: 70, 350m) with Sune Posselt.

Sune Posselt and Ulrik Hasemann climbed Burnier Vogler (D: M4, 280 m) on Aiguille Du Midi.

You can see more photos from the trips here

Kyrgyzstan Expedition july-august

Map of the region with our climbs and attempts
The team freshly arrived in the Djangart.

In july and august I spend 3 weeks in the Djangart region of Kyrgyzstan, we were 6 danish and 1 british climber. It was my first expedition to the greater ranges, but surely not the last.

A great adventure with great people in a remote region of the world, with 4 first ascents. Our team (Sune Buur, Anders Hedeager Pedersen and me) did the first ascent of

Peak Pernille (5190m) by our route "Waiting for the tide" - (AD: 55, 700m) and made an attempt on Pt. 5025 on which we did not succeed.

Carsten Cooper - Jensen and Simon Lund Jensen made the first ascent of Peak Kathryn (4885m) by their route "Russian Roulette" (AD: 60, 700m)

Kristoffer Szilas and Jim Broomhead made the first ascent of Peak Lea (4950m) by their route "Mermaid" (D: M4, 70, 500m) and Peak Alexandre (5290m) - "Bivouac - French for mistake" (D: 5,4, 70, 700m)

You can see more photos from the trip here and the expeditionreport here

Aiguille du midi, Burnier Vogler, D, 250 m

On the 24.th of April, Sune, Anders and I climbed the great Burnier Vogler on the Midi. We abseiled the route from the false summit of the Cosmique Ridge, 5-6 abseils most with bolted anchors. The difficulties is mostly on the two first pitches, we simulclimbed after the 3. pitch.

At the first abseil point.

Sune setting off on the first pitch.

Anders on the second, and prob best pitch of the climb.

Sune and Anders following the third pitch, before we set off simulclimbing the rest, and then ran up the Cosmique arete for the last lift down to Chamonix..

Tour Ronde North face, D, 350m

On the 21.st of April, Anders and I climbed the north face on Tour Ronde, the route was not in the best of conditions with black ice for around 7 pitches. A very nice route, with a long descent as we were camped on the Midi plateau. Picture is Anders in front of the face.

Anders posing it out on the Geant glacier, with the north face of Tour Ronde in the background

Looking up the first pitch in the couloir.
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Belay on a rock, looking down the crux pitch.

Anders at the top belay, we did not go for the summit as both of us, had been there before.