Arete de Rochefort, AD

On the 31. of July Pernille and I climbed the Arete de Rochefort, the route is pretty straightforward and easy. As the guidebook says it is more exposed than hard.

It has some of the best views and best scenery in the Mont Blanc massif.

The approach to the route involves an hour or so of scrambling

The ridge in all its glory, pretty easy and pretty exposed. Italy down on the right

Further along the ridge, with the dent du geant, tacul and mont blanc brenva face in the background, very nice views.

Climbers on one of the rocktowers of the route

Rescue to get four people of the Geant, that had climbed the fixed rope, but could not get down again on their own. They were dropped of on the glacier.

We did not climb the geant, as there were a cue of 15 people waiting to get on the route.

Contamine Mazeaud AD+, 65, 350m

On the 27th of July, Pernille and me climbed the Contamine Mazeaud on the Tacul triangle. The night before it had snowed around 15 cm. We had pretty harsh conditions on the route, with 40km winds and heavy spindrift. Apart from that, the route was nice and varied. We abseiled down the couloir Chere.

We had the Mazeaud to ourselves, but there were people in the Grisolle and the Chere. We counted over 70 people on the Tacul normal route. Quite a few teams on south face of midi and the Eperon also.

Approaching the route, it goes pretty much straight up from there.

Third pitch in the entry couloir, pretty windy stuff

Belay after the third or fourth pitch, these are the only two pictures from the route, after this we came onto the main face, where there was a lot of spindrift going on. Good climbing though.

The first of five abseils down the couloir Chere, which seemed to be in ok conditions after the first pitch. There are in situ anchors for every 20 meters or so.

Very nice sunset from the col du midi.

Contamine Grisolle AD, 60, 350m

On the 10th of July, Pernille and I went up to the Col du midi, to climb the Contamine Grisolle and Mazeaud on the Tacul triangle.

Tacul triangle, a lot of great short training routes on this face. Easy acces and descent.

Quite a lot of snow at the time, digging out the pit for the tent .

We simulclimbed pretty much the whole thing, route was in really good conditions.

Topping out on the triangle ridge, after two hours of climbing.

The last bit to the top, great views. We downclimbed to gain the normal route on Tacul further down, spending as little time as possible under the seracs of the nw face.

Next day we made an attempt on the Mazeaud, but abseiled off, a 100m up the route after a couple of avalanches had swept the entry couloir.

Aiguille de l'M, NNE, D, 6a, 180m

On the 18th, Pernille, Sune and I climbing the NNE of the L´m.

I did the climb last summer, but it was worth doing again, especially the alternative direct finish is very nice, around F6a.

Pernille seconding the first slab pitch.

3rd pitch, very nice crack, with a bit of slab to it. 2 pitons in place

4th pitch, very nice handjam start to offwidth.

Sune starting up the direct finish, very nice cracks and grooves, 2 pitons in place.

After the 5th pitch we abseiled off, instead of going for the summit. 3 abseils, some in situ stuff.

We had a look a the Voie Couzy on the north face TD-, 6a 250m, looked very nice and busy, another day.

Arete Des Papillons D, 5c, 250m

On the 20th of july, Sune and I climbing the Arete des papillons on the Peigne. Nice relaxed day out with nice weather and climbing.

Approach to aiguille de Peigne, easy scrambling about 30 min from midstation.

Second pitch on the ridge, nice cracks and grooves

Lunch at belay, waiting for french ropeteam of three to get their stuck rope out.

5th pitch, cracks and a nice corner.

Me seconding the crux pitch, on very exsposed corners and flakes, beautiful. 4 pitons in place.

Last pitch, bit of crack to a nice slab, two bolts in place. We abseiled of from top of this pitch. You can continue another 2-300 vertical to the summit of the Peigne, another day.